Back in October we observed a number of all-time highs for 1998 vintage First Growths. Mouton Rothschild 1998 has now traded at record levels (£4,750) twice in the past four months, consolidating its level above its previous highs (around £4,500), set in 2011 and again last year.

Neal Martin last tasted the wine in 2011 and awarded it 92 points, commenting: “…it unwinds nicely: graphite and cedar interlacing the black fruit, almost brutal towards the finish that needs more persistency.”

Haut Brion 1998 offers an interesting comparison. Martin awarded it 98 points in 2008, noting: “There is a natural quality to this wine, a beguiling sense of harmony that will ensure that this will become the best Haut Brion since the 1989 (on par with the criminally overlooked 1990.)”

Its price tracked Mouton 1998 very closely until early 2016 when it began to lag behind. In the past 12 months it has outperformed Mouton but it is still available at a 10% discount.

Haut Brion 1998 is a far better wine in the opinion of many critics, and one that has historically mirrored Mouton’s progress. Is Mouton’s progress a guide to Haut Brion’s future performance?